

- #Manual for a bst40 carb how to
- #Manual for a bst40 carb pdf
- #Manual for a bst40 carb manual
- #Manual for a bst40 carb full
- #Manual for a bst40 carb mods
Unroll the diaphragm and look at the inside and out, check the seal edge for tears, cracks, or anything else that doesn't look good. If you find your cap is warped, sorry but ya gotta buy a new one.ģ- Check the diaphragm and slide for any wear or damage. You can also use a straight edge to check for flatness as well ( figure 7). To check if it is flat, find any level straight surface (small piece of glass is the best) and check. This allowed even more dirt to enter the carb and started causing problems). If yours looks worse than figure 6, you need to clean it way more often.Ģ- Check that your cap-sealing surface is flat (there have been some people who have found that their cap became warped due to the stupid 2 bolt design. I clean it every oil change and ride in extremely dusty conditions. If you do you will eliminate many of the issues that this carb can develop over time. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that everyone reads Creepers BST 40 Carb Venting and follow his instructions. As usual though, our Buddy Creeper has already solved this problem. It is also the major reason you need to be cleaning your carb often.
#Manual for a bst40 carb full
Chances are if you have never pulled your carb, or do lots of off-road riding, the top of your carb is full of dirt! Don’t freak out, this happens. Now that you have the top end off the carb, there are a few things to inspect.ġ-Inspect the top of carb. Now you should have something that looks like figure 5 sitting in your work area. I usually have a plastic case or baggie that I put all of the small pieces of my carb into. Make sure to set the needle in a safe place. Once the slide is removed, remove the needle by turning the slide to an angle ( figure 4). Pull up on the diaphragm to remove the slide from the carb ( figure 3).Ĥ. It is often referred to as "drilling the slide".)ģ.
#Manual for a bst40 carb mods
One of the mods done later in this post involves increasing the size of these 2 holes to allow the transfer to happen quicker, thereby increasing throttle response. (if you look down into the slide, you will see the top of the needleĪnd the 2 holes that are used to transfer the high/low pressure back and forth. it is not directly connected to the throttle. This is the reason they call this carb a "CV" (constant velocity) carb. You will now be able to see the diaphragm on top of the slide. Be careful not to let the spring get away from ya. Once those 2 bolts are out, carefully lift up on the top of the carb.

In figure 1 you can see I have already replaced these with the allen heads. Don’t worry if they do or already have though, grab them with a pair of vice grips and out they come. I highly recommend that you replace these with a higher grade, allen head. The carb comes stock with some phillips head screws. This will grant you access to the slide and needle.

You will be using cleaning agents on the carb. It is also a good idea to have good ventilation to remove fumes. You need a clean, dirt free, environment to perform this job. If you got the carb out of the bike, we should be fine.ģ. Once again, if you are scared to do this after reading and studying all the info available PLEASE STOP NOW!!! I don’t not want to be responsible for your carb because you rushed, didn't listen, didn't fully understand something, or didn't bother to ask a question.
#Manual for a bst40 carb how to
If you don’t know how to do that, refer to the carb removal section.Ģ. If your carb is not out of your bike yet, don’t go any farther until it is. If you would like to help, donations can be sent by paypal we begin:ġ.
#Manual for a bst40 carb manual
Please feel free to use and distribute this! My goal is to eventually have enough threads edited and formatted to make an actual service and repair manual for the LC4.
#Manual for a bst40 carb pdf
pdf has been compiled and edited by dorkpunch. Please remember that this is written with KTMs in mind, not GSXRs so take it into account before you go and cut/drill or wotever you might be thinking of doing. Its probably not worth mentioning to most people, but confusion does arise at times because of different names for the same thing.Īlso, there is a section at the end about modifications. There are references to the "needle jet", it is just another name for the emulsion tube. # NOTE #: I just thought I should add this note, with regards to terminology in this the guide. If the admins/mods feel its appropriate to remove that, please do. The email address about the donations is in no way connected to me. I left the names and details of the original writer in. Its on my PC as a PDF file, so I've cut n pasted it into here as well as I can. But it is originally written for some sort of KTM (hence the LC4 and other KTM sort of names n numbers dotted through this) but as this is the same (well, quite similar) carb used in alot of the GSXR 1100's I thought it useful to the likes of you and me.
